Day 13 – A Very Good Day.

Up early AGAIN.  No worries.  Out the door by 8 or 830a.  Had to stop at the local Walmart for a few final supplies.  They were in the middle of a major change up.  A nice lady helped out.  Blasted east towards Escanaba.  I should be there about 945 or 10.  Still time for some breakfast.  No coffee at the $40 motel.  Beautiful , cool, clear morning.  Crossed into the Eastern Time Zone.  Make that arrival 11ish.  No breakfast, lunch.

Got to Escanaba, drove through town to the waterfront.  It sits on Little Bay de Noc.  Part of the the Green Bay.  Northwestern part of Lake Michigan.  Sounds more complicated than it is.  It sits on Lake Michigan.  30 miles or so north of the Wisconsin line.  Hung out at one of the city parks for a few minutes then went looking for the dockyards.

48 years ago, as a young man who just joined the Coast Guard, I was assigned to the US Coast Guard Cutter Arundel.  I spent the next 4 years of my life living on that thing.  The ship, built in the 30’s was decommissioned in the late 70’s or early 80’s.  I never saw it again since being discharged.  Once retired I started wondering what happened to that.  I even had this idea to build a model of it.  At any rate for a few years I was trying to locate blueprints for it.  Finally found some in the National Archives in Maryland.  I hired a guy a while back to go there, pull them, scan and send them to me.  In the mean time I tried to find out what happened to the ship.

It had changed owners a few times and I tracked it down to a maritime construction firm in Escanaba.  I found it this morning.  There have been changes to it over the years.  Different stack.  Deck equipment blah blah blah.  But that was her.

I couldn’t get into the yard or find the office.  The place was pretty locked down.  I looked for a sign that said –

Old guys who want to wander around, get in the way, ask questions, tell stories and keep me from working – Welcome!

I couldn’t find it.  It must have be in the shop being repainted.  I settled for a few pics.  After some looks from guys in the yard, I bailed.  So the model, if you are really really bored, thats another project, still in process on my YouTube channel.  Can find it on the blog.

I got back on the scooter figuring I should get back to reality.  It was noon or after.  Decided on lunch.  Pulled into Bobaloon’s.  Had the Italian beef w/ hand cut fries.  Succinctly.  It was great.  The nicest young couple runs it.  Should be on Diners, Drive In’s and Dives.  Enough time.  Headed out.  God I can waste time.

Just outside of Escanba was the UP state fair.  Big deal.  Traffic. People.  All enjoying the summer.  Got on US 2.  Traffic was heavy for a few miles.  I set the throttle lock on the bike for 60 (65 speed limit) and let everyone pass.  Wonderful cherub little children staring blankly while they passed.  One of them I believe was picking his nose.

Traffic thinned out, many heading farther north.  I was in no hurry.  The day was picture perfect.  High 60’s, low 70’s.  Sunny.  An hour or so down the road I turned into one of the numerous roadside parks.  Just because I wanted to.  These little roadside attractions are undiscovered by most.  Not even given a second thought as people head for more mainstream destinations as the fudge shops on Mackinac Island.

Usually these are all but empty.  Brought out my “Kermit” chair (canvas folding chair that breaks down for motorcycle travel / camping), had a cigar, relaxed.  Then all of a sudden, I then realized I killed an hour and a half  or so.  While this was a light travel day, I did want to get to the bridge before sunset.  Some guy who has the same type of bike came over to tell me all about it.  Skull and crossbones that light up.  Grim reaper and flames painted on it .  Sounds great!

Back on the road and I needed to refuel.  After, I went and looked for this Artisanal spring lake.  Supposed to the biggest or something. After 45 minutes I gave up and got back to plan.  Over an hour left to my destination.  New arrival – 6p.  Started getting tired again.  Big lunch.  Sun. etc.  I stopped at another rest stop.  This one had the notoriety of being the northern most point of Lake Michigan.  Even better.  Check out the facilities.  Shouldn’t they all look like this?

Back on the road once again.  This time arrived in St. Ignace, MI.  Founded in 1680 or something.  It also is the northern terminus of the Mackinac bridge.  The only thing connecting Upper and Lower MI.  Fueled up and found a Hotel.  The Sunset Motel.  Very, Very nice.  Has everything.  Right next to an Irish Pub – that happens to be closed.  I think I have the petunia room.

Overall a great day.  Over 4,100 miles so far. About 275 to go tomorrow.  That should push it over the 4,400 mark for the trip.  There is not a cloud in the sky.  Surrounded by woods filled with birds making their calls before the sun sets.  Traffic on the highway is winding way down.  I am tired.  The day was full.  I saw things that made me smile.  Tomorrow I make the final leg home.

Life is good.

Day 12 – Sun and back in Northern Michigan.

Sprinkling when I got up early.  I was optimistic.  The Weather Bug app showed no big rain and sunny later.  I did not put on the rain gear.  I was ready.  830 out.  Stopped at a local coffee shop downtown and I didn’t realize it but killed an hour there.  Made a few calls.  Sipped my coffee like I was at a French bistro.  Got on the road.  Keep doing this and it will be 7p before I found a hotel. Continue reading

Day 11, Still going Clockwise – Rain, Rain, Rain & more Rain

Tuesday, August 13

The sum total of this blog.  I thought I was going to beat the storm cells.  I was so confident that I didn’t even weather up.  Hah. 30-40 miles of mist, fog, nothing big.  US Rte 2 is a nice road.  4 lane divided. Good pavement.  Good shoulders.  70mph through North Dakota.  Then the rains came.  Finally I pulled over in a rest stop and put on my rain pants.  It was nice to go inside with heat and a place to sit while gearing up.  Jeans were soaked from the knees down.  Where the spray hits. My only concern was the electronics but most was bagged with ziplock stuff.  Clothes, well never mind. Too late, I forgo-ed the luggage covers. Continue reading

Day 10 – My Journey to the Center of North America

I forgot what time I left Assiniboi, maybe 10. Since it was still raining, I weathered up. Fueled up and headed east. Rain. Bad roads. Kept speed down. Really bad roads for awhile. Maybe 30 miles. Then they improved and I brought speed up to about 65 when rain was light and 55 when heavy. It was like this all day long. I had an hour or so with no rain, but then again no sun.

Scenery was monotonous. Flat. However not treeless. Agricultural. Big ranches, farms, occasional small town.

It was cold as well. Relatively speaking. In the 50s. About 150 miles out the winds picked up. 30-40 mph. Off the forward quarters of the bike. I was starting to get cold. Cold and wet. The winds will not knock the bike over. It will however push you around the lane, especially in big gusts. Sometimes in the sustained winds direct to your broadside you’re leaning the bike in an angle into the wind to compensate.

Cold, rain, wind, bad roads at times, all day. I even hit a patch of hail. Not the big stuff. The little pea sized. Stings. This was one of my most challenging ride on this trip. Technically at least. Physically, that heat down south I believe still is the winner there.

I stopped in some town in Saskatchewan to get a sandwich. Main reason was to warm up and figure where I was and what my plan was..

50 miles to Manitoba. Another 75 to Soures, MB where I could catch a road south to a border crossing and drop into North Dakota. Another 100 miles. I had a plan. Albeit it was getting towards mid-afternoon and I was not making good time.

I hit Manitoba in short order. I was even going to stop for a pic of the sign. However, the rain, a shoulder of loose gravel and a sign that smaller than a speed limit sign negated that.

Hit Souris, fueled and headed south. Good road. Light rain. Picked up speed. About 10 miles north of the border the rain stopped. Customs was a non-event. Smiled, checked my passport and told me to be safe.

In 50 miles I was in Rugby, ND. Which I found out is the geographical center of the North American Continent. I picked a hotel next to this national treasure knowing that I would be on the receiving end of some sort of metaphysical energy vortexes all night. It would help me sleep.  It was close to 8p when I check in.

Cool evening. Sat outside for my customary scotch and cigar. This is why I brought my hoodie. A local came up to chat. I didn’t get his name. 80Yrs young. Nice guy. He said his wife was out doing something so he was going to see what was going in town. Talked for a while.  Realized it was 10p and went to bed.

Up, looked outside and saw rain. Oh well. Went over to the restaurant for their complimentary breakfast. You bet.

So its a little after 8. I’ll push this out. Load the bike. It has stopped raining and it looks pretty clear east following US 2. Tonight hopefully somewhere in Minnesota.

Life is good.

Day 9 – The 49th Parallel

Up early today.  Picked up a cough and didn’t sleep too well.  That cough carried on most of the day, and culminated by my encounter with a Canadian Border guard whom I will refer to Officer Labatts.  More on that later.

I was on the rode by 830ish.  Cloudy skies, cool.  I was heading north.  About 350 miles in total.  Fuel stops were on my mind.  Not many towns, or anything the farther north you go.  Great riding.  Low traffic.  Scenery expansive.  Speed Limit 70.  I was staying in the 60-65 range.  Mainly because I had to flip my windscreen on my helmet up to cough.  Enjoying the ride.  Sun came out as I got further north and the morning progressed.

First gas stop was Miles City, MT..  I stretched my legs, breakfast snack and hopped onto I-94 east for 30-40 miles.  I-94 followed the Yellowstone River along that stretch and it was actually very breathtaking..

Exited shortly on one of Montana’s ‘Back Country ByWays’.  Crossed over the Yellowstone River.  I tried to get a picture but was unable to find a suitable turn off.  That’s even after going across it a few times.  Oh well, you’ll just have to take my word for it.  I blasted north.  A couple of more fuel stops.  Scenery was impressive, vast, empty and sometimes very monotonous.  Miles upon miles before you would see a house.  Look at one of the pictures below for about 2 hours and you’ll understand.  🙂  Don’t get me wrong, it was pretty.  Probably because I wasn’t feeling 100% chipper.

Passed through the great Fort Peck Indian reservation.  Pulled into Circle, MT.  100 miles south of the border.  I had just crossed the Missouri River, was going to get a pic but rain was starting to move in.  I put covers on the luggage and rain pants on.  I spent about 45 minutes here hoping the bulk of the storm would pass by.

Got up to Scobey, MT.  15 miles south of the border and fueled up.  Quite of few gas stations in this area are pre-pay only.  No attendants.  Pumps and tha’ts it.  In the last 100 miles I rode out the storm cell.  I took off the rain gear and stowed the luggage covers.  This is in the middle of nowhere.  The two pics below are less than 2 miles from the border crossing.  I hadn’t seen another vehicle north or south bound in quite a while.

Pulled into the US crossing and they stop you.  Passport.  Questions.  Weapons?  What am I doing here? How much cash?  He open my tail bag quick to look.  The other officer was running me through the system, calls out – ‘He’s fine’.  I was released with a smile and reminded to stop at the Canadian side.  They must have known.

I idled up to the Canadian border station.  It looked like it was empty.  I pulled up under the canopy, shut my bike off and was taking off my helmet.  Officer Labatts literately came hustling out asking me what I thought I was doing?  Didn’t I see the sign?  I turned around and about 15′ behind me was a stop sign.  An apology did not suffice.  I had to learn to obey signs.  That without exaggeration had to have lasted 2 minutes.  He would have directed me over to the window.  Now get over to the window.  So I took two steps to the left of the bike to the window..  He walked behind the window.

It was surreal.

Then the questions.  What am I doing here?  Just touring.  Thats all you do?  Why would you come here?  Never been.  You realize there are nothing but small towns?  That’s what I do.  What do I do for a living?  Retired.  Before?  Govt Affairs and Law Enforcement (I thought I would throw that in).  Do you have any weapons with you?  No. Do you have any weapons at home?  My old service weapons.  Do you ever travel with your weapons?  No.  When was the last time you left your house with your weapon?  Long time.  How long in Canada?  2 or 3 days.  Not sure.  I will ask you again (getting quite upset) how long will you be in Canada?  2 or 3 days.  Not sure what you want me to tell you.  When I’m tired, I stop.  When I am not, I ride.  He had a hard time grasping the wandering concept.

20 minutes of questioning.  Mind you. Not another car either way during that time.  I am leaving out a lot but you get the idea.  To be fair, a remote border crossing used by anyone other than locals should arouse suspicion.  He matter of factly sent me on my way.

So there I was.  The 49th Parallel.  The great dividing line between two nations.  There is even an early 1940’s war propaganda movie with that name.  Raymond Massey I think.  Scheming Nazi’s taking advantage of the kind and welcoming Canadians.  You get the idea.

50 miles to Assiniboia.  Oh yeah– Why did I pick that town?  It was in bold on the map.  Usually means there is some sort of commerce there.  Motels, bars, etc..  You realize there is only 1,500 people there?  That’s what I do.

Bad roads for the first 30 miles.  Speed kept down to 45-50.  Speed limit 90kph (55).  Got to town.  Officer Labatts was right.  Not a lot here.  Checked in.  Went to a local grocery store for some cough stuff.  Can’t sell any of the good stuff unless a pharmacist is present – it was Sunday.  Bought cough drops.

Showered, got something quick to eat at the bar next store.  Sat out.  Note the liquor store and motel check in.  7p it started raining again.  Tried doing the blog but still feeling crappy so went to bed.

The first half of the night was not fun.  Coughing, wheezing etc.  At one point I got up and started googling clinics or whatever in the area I could dodge into quickly tomorrow.  Checked weather, still raining. About 2a, what ever I had pretty much stopped.  Got some sleep.  Up at 630ish and went next door to the restaurant for the breakfast that is included w the room.

I am feeling pretty sparky again.

Rain has stopped for a few hours so I am going to load and scoot.  Plan is to head east to Manitoba, then drop back down to North Dakota and pick up US Rt 2, which will take me all the was to northern MI.  About 3 days, then 300 miles south to home.  Currently plan is Friday.  5 more days on the road.

Life is good.

On Tour.. Days 7 & 8 – Denver to Montana

Friday and Saturday, August 9 & 10

Good day in Denver.. Got to catch up with my friend Benny who unfortunately is not doing well. It was great to visit with him and his family. 130ish I got on the road for Cheyenne. I-25 north was completely stopped by the Tech Center, south of downtown. I took surface streets to about 92nd street north of town. It looked like the interstate was moving. It was extremely hot and I was baking on the surface street stoplight routine. So I made a poor decision and I got on. Anything to beat the heat.

Before the first mile was under me, it was stop and go, 6 lanes until Fort Collins. About 60 miles. Denver traffic I will never understand. Continue reading

Still Circling Clockwise – Day 6, Denver

Thursday, August 8

I changed up a bit today.  After I fueled up, I got on the interstate toward Denver.  It was beautiful out.  In the 60’s.  Clear skies.  I-25 traffic was very light.  65mph in this section.  Climbing up to the pass.  Still feeling refreshed and sparky, I stopped for some pics.  At the top of the pass was also the Colorado state line.  Continue reading

Clockwise through the Heartland – Day 4 Amarillo on Route 66

Beautiful start to the day.  I actually got out an hour earlier at 9a. I wanted to beat some of the heat build up. Up before 6, 3 cups of coffee, a granola bar, blog, loaded the bike and fueled up at the casino. 

Headed west.  Mr. Garmin showed travel time to Amarillo about 8 1/2 hours and 450 miles give or take.  Arrival at 440p.  Perfect.  I knew that wouldn’t hold. Never the less..  Sleep and a shower makes one confident.

Speed limits on rural roads in Oklahoma is at least 65mph.  That of course is at least 70 cruise.  It was the first day of school in many communities.  Not used to that.  In Michigan school starts after labor day.

Passed through an area with quite a few of Corps of Engineer reservoirs.  Some of them were pretty big.  Nice diversion from the usual flat landscape..

I kept up speed and the temp kept building.   I couldn’t figure out the GPS.  The destination time held pretty steady.  I had hundreds of miles to go.  Small towns along the way.  Most just barely hanging on.  Lots of big farms. Some livestock operations.  Fuel is not at plentiful as I thought.  It was there.  Strung farther apart at times.  Get off the interstates and this is the rest of the world.

Again, did not expect this but the GPS brought me into Oklahoma City proper.  It had to be in the high 90’s.  I was in Edmonds.  Nice area.  Appeared upscale.  Stop and go.  Construction.   Having to go 2 or 3 stoplight cycles to get through.  I was a mess..  🙂  The bike is nothing but a furnace between your legs when at a stop and its this hot.

It must have taken me a half hour or more to move through the town.  I was on historic US Route 66.  I decided to pull in and have my first lunch on this trip.  Pork and Dreams.  Had the brisket sandwich and a side of beans.  It was pretty good.  They also had a huge container of iced water.  Just the thing.  I was looking at my route and timing.  300 or so miles to go.  Now showing 530 or 6 arrival.  It wasn’t quite one.  I was feeling guilty.  I’m wasting time.

Back on the road and about 20 more minutes of construction and getting lost once I was westward bound.  Speed limit usually 65.  Again, means 70mph cruise.  I was racking up the miles.  Still very hot.  I passed a small church with a temperature sign – 102.  He is probably getting information from a higher source..  Kept speed up.  Traffic was very light.  Population centers decreasing.  Becoming more cognizant of fuel.  Water stops.  Every time I stop, its at least 15 minutes.  Pour water over my head.  Drinking 1 to 2 liters.

I was in oil and gas field country.  Miles between town.  Flat.  Barren.  Hot.  Straight roads. BIG operations.

Finally.  The state line.

100 miles to Amarillo.  I gotta tell you.  There is nothing out there in this part of the State, but as soon as I crossed, the roads had shoulder and the speed limit went to 75mph on a two-laner..  I obliged.  Speed was up and I was moving.  I needed to hit the first town for gas but there weren’t any.  Referring to day 1, I ran out of fuel again.  Cruising at 80 will do that.  I was actually getting decent range but just stretching the miles.  I had about 125 miles on this tank and was looking for the first town.  Anyway, I switched to reserve, pulled over and checked the Garmin for the closest fuel.  12 miles to the North and East.  I hit ‘go’, turned around and fueled up in Canadien, TX.  Back on my route, a hundred miles to go, fuel full, I brought the bike back up to speed.  I realized why the GPS was so optimistic about arrival times..

West Texas is very remote.  I will leave at that.  Great roads though.  I hit a few construction zones and they were long.  Big crews.  Long hours.  They were still putting down asphalt at 7 at night.  If there is light, I guess they work.

I was getting pretty tired.  Kept speed up.  Watching big storm cells ahead.  They looked to be moving to the north and east.  You can see them for miles.  Finally started to pull into Amarillo proper.  Found a great little place on Route 66.  Has all the essentials, wifi, A/C, shower..  The owner was great.  He made sure I got everything I needed.

Unloaded, showered and drank a bunch of water.  There’s a little bodega just across the street.  Went and got a little snack and one of those 24oz cans of beer.  Nothing quenches your thirst like cold beer.  Sat out in my chair and finished the evening with a cigar and scotch.  Looking at miles traveled.  1500 so far.  No idea of next routes.  I’m withing 450 miles of Denver.  I’m thinking probably Thursday.  I could use an easy ride day.  New Mexico on Wednesday.

Life is good

Clockwise – Day 3.. 98 and Sunny!

Again did not get out of Helena, AR until 10a or so. I was up early too. Oh well. I have this Garmin ‘Zumo” GPS, designed for motorcycles. You can task it with or with out all sorts of roads, routes etc. I loaded it for Norman, OK. It was supposed to take me 8 hours on country roads and put me there about 530p. Got it.

Beautiful riding. 55-60 mph on most roads. Scenery was great. A crop duster entertained me for a while. I wonder what I was inhaling? I saw my first armadillo road kill. I thought about getting a picture but then realized it really wasn’t too interesting. Continue reading